Anti-Aging Products: Too Good to be True?

The industry is booming, but customers need to keep a level head.

The global anti-aging product market is expected to generate nearly $292 billion in sales by 2015 as the number of creams, lotions, serums, moisturizers, and other treatments (some literally paved in 24-carat gold) that promise to de-puff, perfect and smooth out our skin multiplies by the minute.

But there are a few claims made in anti-aging advertisements that may not be as flawless as they appear.

Last week, the Food and Drug Administration issued a warning to beauty giant L'Oreal demanding that it tone down the language used to lure customers to the product Génifique, part of ​L'Oreal's luxury Lancôme brand. Advertisements for the anti-wrinkle cream claim that it "boosts the activity of genes" and contains ingredients that "stimulate cell regeneration to reconstruct skin to a denser quality"—assertions only drug products can boast. (If the cosmetic company doesn't oblige, Génifique could ultimately be yanked from shelves.)

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"Lancôme is committed to complying fully with all laws and regulatory standards," L'Oreal spokeswoman Rebecca Caruso said. 

Doctors say consumers need to be wary if a cosmetic product claims to be able to do a little too much.

"First of all, there's nothing that's going to affect our genes—other than a gene transplant. That's absurd," said Dr. Debra Jaliman, author of "Skin Rules" and a New York-based cosmetic dermatologist. "And to reconstruct your skin, the only thing that does that is a laser treatment. I'm glad the FDA picked up on it."

As skin care continues to grow as the largest sector of the natural and organic personal care market—generating $3.3 billion in sales with a nearly 7 percent growth in 2011—there are some who believe that unrealistic ad claims simply speak to the even greater unrealistic expectations of consumers.